Not So Incompetent After All: A Conversation with Alex on Finishing the Alps’ 4000ers

Not So Incompetent After All: A Conversation with Alex on Finishing the Alps’ 4000ers

Alex, member of our beloved IAFL, just did something very un-incompetent: he completed the 82 4000-meter peaks of the Alps! He started this epic adventure in 2019, and on June 28th, 2025, he stood on the summit of his final peak, closing this chapter of his mountaineering feats. 

We sat him down to ask him a few questions about the highs, the lows, and everything in between.

Alex, you just completed a pretty insane project. What was your first thought at the summit of the 82nd peak? Relief? Joy? "What now?"

In general, I must admit that I am not someone with very sharp emotions in the mountains. On the summit of the Lyskamm (the 82nd), there was mostly happiness, as the day was quite relaxed and the climb went smooth. Traversing the Lyskamm was nostalgic, as I had views across all the 4000’ers of Wallis, which brought back many memories.

The most memorable moment of this year was summiting the Aiguille du Jardin in May, which was the last complicated mountain out of the 82. This was a complicated and long climb, and really felt like the final hurdle to take. Getting back down in the valley after that climb I felt quite some relief. Climbing this number of classic alpine routes without any major accidents is something to be happy with on its own. 

You climbed your first 4000m peak in 2019. Looking back, what was it that made you start this whole project? What planted the seed for this?

Up until around 2 years ago, it was not a goal in itself to climb all the 4000m peaks in the alps. My main goal is and has always been to climb routes that inspire me - either a striking line, high-quality climbing or simply a beautiful mountain. Naturally, many long climbs can be found on 4000m peaks.

Around 2 years ago I noticed that I had climbed close to 60 of the 82 4000m peaks. This did trigger me to try and complete the remaining 22, which took another 2 years. I am happy that I managed to climb most of them through nice routes, and only had to resort to proper “peak-bagging” mode for some of the last ones. 

Out of the 82 peaks, which one left the biggest impression on you — and why?

My most memorable climb out of the 82 is the Peuterey integrale, from the south side to the Mont Blanc. This is a famous route, which is normally climbed in three days starting from the valley. In 2023, I climbed this route with my good friend and climbing partner Sander. For both of us, this was the longest alpine route we had climbed up to that point, and it was special to take this step together. We had a total of 5 hours of sleep in 3 days, and on the final day we descended the full 4000 vertical meters to Les Houches in 1 push. To this day I have never been so tired. Having such an adventure together creates a special bond, because of the hardship and beautiful moments that you go through together. 

If you had to bring your best friend to just one of the 82 peaks, which one would it be — and would they still be your friend after?

I would bring any of my friends to the Lagginhorn, which holds a special place in my heart. I have been 3 times on this mountain, and numerous times in the area around it. It’s a lovely place, with gorgeous views. We would first stay in the Weissmieshut, and enjoy a beautiful sunset over the Mischabelgrat. Then the next day we climb the Lagginhorn, either by the S ridge or normal route. Ideally we’d still be friends afterwards, but you never know… 

I’m guessing some climbs must have felt incredibly joyful, others might have felt lonelier, tougher, or more introspective. You might have had a few “uh-oh” moments along the way too — or even times you got emotional, whether from exhaustion, beauty, or both.

In the mountains, I tend to be quite pragmatic, focusing on the route, the risk assessment and the team. For me, most of my emotions arise in the valley, or even when I am back home in Lausanne. Of course, there are many moments that stuck with me: the sunrise when climbing the Grand Pilier d’Angle, a climbing partner that made a fall on the Kuffner ridge, a thunderstorm that started just as we came back to the hut from the Dent Blanche, and so on….

Now that you have completed all the 82 peaks, what did this challenge teach you about yourself?

It has shown me that if I set my mind to something, that I can have the grit to go to great extends to achieve it. At the same time, it has taught me that one should regularly re-examine their priorities. Being fully committed to alpine climbing inevitably means making sacrifices in other parts of life, such as your professional career, friendships, relations and other hobbies. For me, these sacrifices have been worth it up to now, but it is important to consciously choose what you prioritize and be at peace with this choice.

Finally, for anyone out there dreaming to take on the 82 4000ers, what advice would you give?

I would first channel the age old advice: a good mountaineer is an old mountaineer. When aiming to climb such an amount of “classic” alpine routes, there will be an inevitable amount of both objective and subjective danger that you will be exposed to. It is important to have sufficient experience to navigate these risks and to make sensible decisions. When working on a “ticklist”, it can lead to the risk of pushing through those dangers to tag that one summit that you need in the area. 

Having said that, if you have the passion and drive to head into the high mountains in the alps, I can only encourage you to go! Live in the moment, enjoy the beautiful scenery, and choose those routes that inspire you most - whether those are on a 2000m high peak or on the Mont Blanc. 

Alex at the top of Lyskamm, completing the 82 4000m peaks of the Alps.
"To me, alpinism is first and foremost a team sport, which leads to valuable friendships."